For the Girls   (Ladies first of course)

The information here is designed as a guide for purchasing.  It is worthy of note that despite size information, clothing fits can vary from style to style within any manufacturer and they can vary between manufacturers.  The only sure fire method of establishing the fit of a garment is to try it on.

It is important to state that ideas given here are for you to blend in, not stand out.  Despite your thoughts, one size larger is always better than one smaller.  The reality is that most women are not a size 8 or 10 but 14 or larger.  That is always a complaint when shopping.  Ever notice that the racks are out of "larger" sizes before the smaller ones?

Getting the RIGHT Fit and Fashion Faux Pas.

The idea is to blend in, not look like a drag queen or a Friday night street walker.  Of course if that is your intent, then you go for it Muffin.  Just be prepared for the consequences.  If it isn't a PRIDE event, it isn't likely to be a good idea.  If you aren't 18 don't try to look like it!  Dress age appropriate and with conservative styles and you will blend fairly easily.  Dress for the circumstances.  Business wear for the office and casual dining etc.  Casual wear for weekends and formal for just that.  I know of one girl who wore a gown to an after wedding breakfast!  Uhhh no!  In other words, use some common sense and dress for the occasion.

So let's start with the obvious.  NO PANTY LINES!  EVER!!!  VPL's are just crass.  The same for bra lines.  Eeewww!

Blouses and tops should have the shoulders about 1" wider than your natural shoulder and your arms should have full freedom of movement.  Jackets should be another inch wider.  Sleeves should be to your wrist bone and jacket sleeves should show about a half inch of your blouse sleeve.  Jackets should never be pulled tight and buttons on blouses should never be pulled to gape open between the buttons.

If you are going to buy something striped, be careful.  Horizontal stripes can look good on a thin girl who is long in the torso.  Otherwise stick to vertical.  If you are slender a diagonal will work too.

Skirts should be loose enough that you can turn them around easily.  If you cant, get a larger size.  Pleats and slits should never be pulled to open.  Straight/pencil skirts (or any skirt for that matter) should fall evenly from your hips and buttocks and never "curl" back in.  Always check the seams on the skirt.  A 5 or 6 gore skirt (a gore is a panel) will have a specific position for wear and that doesn't mean the tag will always be at the back.  You may have a seam at the back but NEVER at the front.  Panels over your hips should match.  Keep a careful eye on this one.  (I have a 5 gore chiffon skirt that worn correctly is pretty and flowing.  Turned slightly it looks terrible.)

Collars and lapels should sit flat.  Pockets should never gape or be stretched.  The same for frilly collars like those on a peasant blouse.  They are cute but need to be away from the neck and lay flat.  They will draw attention away from your neck and that is a good thing.

Jeans and slacks are no different in regards to the rules for fit.  The cut may be a form fit but that doesn't allow you to get away with gaping or stretched pockets.  Form fit doesn't mean they hug your bottom; it means they should rest on your buttocks with no gathering and fall freely from there.  Leg lengths should be with a 2" heel and the hem of the pant leg should fall to your heel.  AND leave the jeans with skin tight legs to the tweenies.

Belts worn as a style accessory should be worn loose over your top and ride on your upper hips.  The wider and flashier the belt the more bold is the fashion statement.  If you want to create illusions then use tops that are worn outside your jeans or skirts, and don't forget that belt I just mentioned.    Look for shaped or loose fits that flare outward at the bottom.  Another figure enhancing trick is to wear a waist cincher.  It will likely take about 2 inches off your waist (and some of these cinchers are really cute for after hours).  You can buy padded undies of course and they will help but normally you shouldn't need them.

Today we are seeing a resurgence of the Empire waist (hooray!).  The waist line is under the bust and it flares outward from there.  They are pretty, flowing and very deceiving.  Excellent for hiding that lack of curve and especially that mature tummy.  They resemble a maternity top and can be found in tops and dresses.  They are usually very flattering and flowing,  Very feminine.

If you have a low cut top such as a scoop neck, a pretty camisole worn underneath can be very appealing and add a touch of class.  Just be careful here.  A lace camisole worn this way with a printed top will be not so pretty.  A solid colour top is best.   If you are using a printed top then look toward a plain tank top underneath.  Stick with basic black, white or beige.

Showing your pretty lace bra is a no no as well.  You might like it but most other people don't want to see it even if it did cost you $150 from a French lingerie boutique.  These are good under heavier clothing and sweaters.  For summer and warm weather, look for something that has no seams to show.  

Another common mistake made by all genders is to be able to see the bra through the top.  If you can see it, wear a camisole.  It is that simple.  If that cant be done then at least make sure your bra colour matches your top.  Don't wear a black bra with a white tee.  The teen might think it is cute so she can attract the teen boys, but fashion sense is something she hasn't got.

Okay dear, colour coordinate not match; save money while increasing your wardrobe flexibility.  You can reduce the size of your wardrobe while increasing the options for wear under different circumstances.  Don't mix warm (reds, yellows, oranges etc) and cool colours (greens, blues etc.)  Neutral earth tones are always in style as is black and dark navy.  Whites can be classy too but in moderation; as in accent.  Look at your skin tone before deciding which colours are best.  A good way to decide is hold a red top on one shoulder and a blue one on the other.  See the effect on your facial colouring and go with the shades that are most flattering.  If you have pale colouring you are likely to want warm tones (reds, pinks etc.)  With a darker complexion you will likely want cooler colours.  Still watch the tones of the colours that they don't overwhelm your complexion.  Once the makeup is on they can make a good makeup job look hideous.

Summertime.  Sunshine and blue skies and short shorts and bikinis.  NOT!  Face it hon., you probably haven't got the figure unless you are really lucky.  Capri's are always good as are mid thigh length shorts or longer.  Stick to a one piece swimsuit although a tankini is also a good choice.  Of course if you have a private yard, then go for the tanning with whatever; just not on the beach.  Sleeveless tops look great on a girl who hasn't got thick upper arms and/or wide shoulders.  You need to, look for flutter or short sleeves.  Flat sandals and open toes are good.  Heels are not unless you are at a wedding or other similar dress up event; and that goes for wedge sandals too.  Think about your height.  Look toward pastel colours for the best effect.

The Basic Wardrobe.

1. The Little Black Dress.  Okay, it doesn't have to be black but the idea of a cocktail dress is what counts.  Forget the Ball Gown unless you are going to be a debutante at your local pride event.  Skirts and dresses should be knee length or just above.  Forget the fashion Poobahs from Milan, Paris, London, New York and Tokyo with their mid calf lengths lengths, or an inch this side of magistrates court..  Your legs will look like stumps.  It might work for a 5 foot 11 inch 120 pound runway model in 4 inch heels but not you.  The same holds true for mid thigh minis.  Unless you REALLY have the legs for it, forget it.

2. Jacket.  Look for classic styling and preferably in black, white, red or navy.  Think about the season too.  Black would be awful for summer where a beige will work nicely.

3. White blouse.  Not a top, a blouse.  Look for something relatively plain without a lot of frills. Cotton and cotton blends will be cool and synthetics will be warm.  Think about the season you will be wearing it.

4. Slacks.  Black, grey, navy or brown in both casual and business wear styling.  NO tight fits!!!

5. Jeans.  Full length and capri length.  Be careful here about the rise.  Nothing is worse than a low rise jean with a few pounds overhanging the waist and a top that doesn't quite make the belt.  A mid-rise can provide a greater illusion of curve.  Think about the top.  If it will well cover the belt of your jeans, the rise wont matter.

6. Trench coat.  Enough said; one long and one short.  White/light for summer dark for winter.

7. Leggings/tights or Leotards.  The absolute replacement for sweatpants.  If you are young and slender wear them under a jumper of any length or a mid thigh length sweater.  Cute.

8. Dress.  Yes I know I already mentioned the Little Black Cocktail dress but you need something you could wear for an evening on the town and the cocktail dress is just too dressy.  Find something with classic styling unless you can afford to buy every season.

9. Lingerie:  Black, White and Neutral (skin tones)  Camisoles, panties, slips and bras.  Yes there are plenty of other pretty and hot colours, but you need the basics first and foremost.  White undies and white slacks do not go together; try a skin tone panty.  A trend of late is to show bras straps.  Not particularly appealing if you are going for dinner or theatre.  Fine for lounging but otherwise?  mmmm no.

10. Sweater.  Classic Cardigan style.  Forget the trendy hoodie except for totally casual.  Look for classic style that will complement your tops and bottoms.  Raglan sleeves are best.  The "Swing Coat" is cute and stylish.  Provides some real deception; if you dont have a tummy.

11. Tops.  Watch your complexion with these and keep them understated.

12. Scarf:  Oh these can be really pretty as a fashion statement if worn properly, but they can also draw attention to your face.  Understated in light pastels is best.  They can really accent an understated outfit.

13. Eyewear.  Okay you are all made up and you want those pretty eyes to show; not be hidden by the latest of Buddy Holly glasses.  The frame should be thin and cut just at the bottom of your brow.  Sunglasses?  Big, round and dark.

It is the whole package that counts not the individual pieces.  This is often the mistake made by both genders.  They will see a top they like without consideration of the effect on the entire presentation.  If it all works together it will be very classy.  If one piece sticks out well you might as well put a sign on your forehead that says "Welcome to the burbs, my trailer is over here."

Getting the Sizes.

The first place anyone has to start is with the height charts.  The fit of a garment is very closely related to height.

While these sizes are generally accurate, the primary differences are lengths.  For instance the inseam on a petite size pair of jeans is 29" while a regular size is 33" and all other measurements will be the same.  One of the reasons these sizes are so different is that women's inseams are measured with shoes having a 2 to 3 inch heel while men's sizes are measured in stocking feet.  Look at where your height is; in the legs or torso.  It will affect your buying decisions.

The next consideration is the designed fit of the garment.  A form fit will look great on a teen or twenty something but as weight increases the fit is tighter and of course will not look as good.  Shaped or loose fits are usually required for the transwoman.

4 (2-4)

XS

8 (6-8)

S

12 (10-12)

M

16 (14-16)

L

18

XL

18W (16W-18W)

1X

22W (20W-22W)

2X

24W

3X